Like surfing, movies are subjective. Everyone has their favorite actors, directors and genres. Some prefer quick, funny hits, others like the long, drawn-out time warps of a Christopher Nolan film.

For decades, Hollywood has portrayed surf characters in its own way. And it's a hit or miss affair—some films very much understand the nuances of surfing, while others overshoot by a mile. Some movies ...

I have a kind of standard morning routine these days. I get up, make the coffee and then I turn on my old steam-powered laptop, check my mail and messages and put up my daily post on my Facebook pages ...