The other reason that Capraia was off Italy’s tourist radar for so long has to do with the fact that until 1986, two-thirds of the island was occupied by a penal colony. Although it also had “regular” ...

The rocky outcrop where the fort is located – 500 feet above the sea – was first occupied at the beginning of the 13th century before a pirate-warrior ominously named Dragut set fire to it in 1540.

Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter. From the dock at Livorno, the slate-coloured sea looked menacing. Dark clouds were gathering and yet the locals ...